Sake review: Nihonizumi Sake Brewery – Junmai Ginjo Unfiltered Unpasteurized Sake Funakuchitori

Established in 1877, Nihonizumi Sake Brewery is a boutique sake producer tucked away in the vibrant heart of Gifu City, Gifu Prefecture, Japan. Despite being just a short stroll from Gifu Station, this hidden gem is easy to miss at first glance. Uniquely located in the basement of what appears to be a standard office building, the brewery’s presence is subtly hinted at by the sake barrels displayed outside – an understated nod to the craft happening below ground.

As a matter of fact, the brewery prides itself in being able to produce freshly pressed sake all year around due to what they call “underground brewing”. These days they are taking advantage of the stable temperature at their basement brewery, which was not always the case – so let’s dive deeper into the rich history of this remarkable brewery and then of course also talk about the sake.

Nihonizumi Brewery – Behind the Sake

Originally, Nihonizumi was known as “Nihonsen," a name inspired by the pristine underground water of the Nagara River. Renowned for its purity, the Nagara River has earned a place on Japan’s list of 100 famous waters and was thought would produce a sake that Japan could be proud of.

Fast forward to today, and the brewery’s journey has taken some unexpected turns. Around 20 years ago, Nihonizumi was forced to relocate due to the redevelopment project at JR Gifu Station. However, the brewery’s deep connection to the Nagara River’s water meant that moving to a distant facility was out of the question. Instead, they made a bold choice, to restart in the basement of a building, ensuring they could continue crafting sake with the same iconic water.

This new setup brought unforeseen advantages. The naturally low, stable temperatures of the basement allowed Nihonizumi to introduce “four-season brewing," enabling the production of fresh sake every month. From this innovation, their highly popular Funakuchitori Series was born and quickly became popular with locals and visitors alike.

But their success isn’t just about location or innovation, it’s also about their unwavering dedication to tradition. Nihonizumi’s sake-making philosophy prioritizes “quality over efficiency,” showcasing their craftsmanship as true artisans when it comes to sake-making.

And for any sake lovers reading this who are planning to visit Gifu, Nihonizumi Sake Brewery also invites visitors to the brewery to learn more about their craft and sake. They offer guided sake brewery tours and tasting experiences (reservation required), which are a perfect opportunity to sample their freshly pressed sake alongside other brews. Recently, Yuki-san had a chance to visit them and shared her experience here.

The Sake

This sake, whose name translates to “Junmai Ginjo Unfiltered, Unpasteurized, Undiluted First-Press", is one of the flagship sake of the brewery. The term “Funakuchitori" (ふなくちとり), which we do not see on sake labels as much refers to sake collected during the very first pressing, which is believed to capture the freshest and most vibrant flavors.

According to the brewery, this sake is carefully prepared at low temperatures, slowly pressed, and stored in a traditional wooden tank before bottling. The result? A fresh, unfiltered raw sake characterized by its elegant, fruity ginjo aroma and the rich, mellow flavor unique to this style.

At first glance, I noticed the sake wasn’t entirely clear, it had a delicate tint of color, like pale straw. On the nose, it revealed fruity notes and a prominent ginjo-ka (the fragrant aroma often associated with ginjo sake). The first sip revealed a sweetness that reminded me of red apple, which then transformed into what I remember as the flavor of milk candy.

As I took this straight out of the fridge at first, I let it warm up slightly, and this is where I think is the true potential of this sake. As the initial sweet impression mellowed,  the sake took on a honey-like expression, a nuttier profile, and even hints of dark chocolate. Reading through my notes, I thought this sake would pair well with a burnt custard topped with pear (or Japanese nashi), ginkgo nuts, or a creamy cauliflower dish.

However, there was something in the finish I wasn’t entirely sure about. Curious, I decided to taste it over several days. While I genuinely enjoyed the sake overall, I still couldn’t fully decide how I felt about the finish. So, I brought it to a sake gathering to get a few other opinions. Interestingly, the group was divided. About half of them picked up on the same note I did and found it slightly distracting. But the other half thought that very nuance was what made the sake so special and said it would be part of the very reason they’d buy!

So yes, taste of course, is deeply personal, and judging by the empty bottle at the end, I can confidently say I thoroughly enjoyed this sake. It’s one I’d happily order if I saw it on a menu and it also inspired me to add Nihonizumi to my list of breweries I would love to visit. With Gifu City not too far away, I hope to make that trip soon!

Facts

Nihonizumi

Sake: Junmai Ginjo Unfiltered Unpasteurized Sake Funakuchitori

SMV: 3

Acidity: 1.5

Semaibuai: 60%

Sake Alcohol Content: 17/18%

Brewery: Nihonizumi Sake Brewery

Location: Gifu